Let's just get this out of my way: this was one of the all-around best travel days
ever in my life so far!
The day almost started out in disaster. When I'd accidentally dropped my alarm clock the previous evening at bed time, it had reset both the time and the alarm to 12:00am. When I manually reset it, I accidentally set the time to be 11am instead of 11pm... meaning that my 5am alarm wouldn't have actually sounded until 12 hours too late. Somehow fate was on my side as I awoke at 4 something am... and after drifting a bit, I suddenly realized at 4:58 am that my clock was 12 hours off and I got myself up. Close call! (don't ever expect me to repeat this little trick at home; I am well known for not being a morning person)
While gathering in the hotel lobby before sunrise, there was one thought going through my head... what was the Phillies score from game 1 of the NLCS that had started in the middle of the night Kenya time? After harrassing anyone I saw with a cell phone, someone kindly looked it up and told me the Phillies were down 4-3 at the top of the 9th. Darn. But at least I knew.
The reason I was up so early was that I'd signed up for a hot air balloon safari over the Mara. I'd signed up with some trepidation- it was a pricey option and it was risky for me to spend so much money when I am acrophobic and might not be able to fully enjoy the ride. But when would I ever get a chance like this again? It seemed too good an opportunity to pass up; and after how much I'd loved the Mara the previous night, I was glad I'd chosen to go for the balloon ride... even though I was still somewhat nervous as I watched them
inflate the balloons in preparation for flight. (there were 2 balloons flying from our location)
As soon as we gently lifted into the air, any lingering fears flew far, far away and I was all smiles. It was simply amazing! The
sunrise and
scenery were as
breathtaking as I'd imagined, and it was cool to have a
different perspective on the animals in the region. By far, the best animal sighting was when we crossed over
Wildebeest that were
lined up as part of the great migration from Kenya to Tanzania; it was quite awesome to
see them from above!
I could have
floated in the sky for days, but after about an hour we were told to sit down as we landed with a bump and tipped to the side. After climbing out of the balloon, we
chilled out for a bit and then we were driven a short distance so that we could have a champagne breakfast
in the middle of the Mara. This was not a rough breakfast by any means; they'd imported chairs, tables, and a
chef as we dined on crepes, cereals, eggs, etc. The best part of breakfast was that it was so relaxed and leisurely; we didn't have to rush to get anywhere.
After stopping back at the hotel and telling everyone I ran into how awesome the ride was, it was time for the 2nd activity of the day which was a trip to a Masai village. Getting to the village involved driving through the Mara to the exit gate... and it turned into a mini "unofficial" game drive as we stopped whenever we encountered something interesting. Among highlights were elephants, majestic looking
crowned crane, and various
antelope. I was really starting to fall in love with the
zebra, who often were standing
in the middle of the road; I loved the way their
tails gently swooshed back and forth.
One thing to know about game drives: if you spot a jeep that is parked, you want to go join them because surely there is something interesting in the area. If you spot a ton of jeeps parked? There must be something truly special going on. When we inched up to an area by the Mara river that was crowded with jeeps, our driver informed us that everyone was waiting for a herd of
Wildebeest across the bank to cross the river as part of the great migration. So we also parked and waited. Our driver said it sometimes can take hours for them to decide to cross. Imagine my excitement when we saw a line of Wildebeest
follow their leader who was cautiously approaching
water's edge...! And then imagine our collective sighs when they decided to
turn around and move away from the water- perhaps because they spotted a crocodile- or perhaps because they wanted to frustrate the tourists. After waiting for awhile with no positive activity, it was time to move on our journey.
So it was onto the Masai village! Many of our group decided to skip this excursion, but I'd read 2 autobiographies of Masai warriors so I was definitely interested in what might be my only chance to step into a Masai village. Young Masai men become warriors from about age 15- 15 after their circumsicion; once they return, they are considered Junior Elders. Some of these Junior Elders greeted us by showing us how they can
make a fire without matches, followed by chanting and
jumping. Some of us took turns jumping with the Masai in their colorful red robes (which incidentally matched my Phillies T-shirt); it was a really cool and unique experience, even if I
totally suck at jumping compared to them!
Once we entered the actual
village, it was time for the
Masai women to greet us in song- and once again, we were included with them as they decorated us
with beads. We walked around the
village a little and saw the inside of a typical Masai hut. Such a completely different lifestyle from anything I'd seen! We also went to their little
craft market where I bought a present for a friend. As with all the places we'd visited, the
children in the Masai village were
smiling and
adorable and of course our group
fell in love with them. We were given boxed lunches as we were ready to depart, but I gave most of mine to the
children in the area. (partly because there were so many flies around; partly because so many arms reached into the jeep once someone gave something away) I should also note- since I've failed to mention it before- that a lot of the kids got a big kick out of seeing their photos in the view finders of our cameras.
Now it was time for the "official" mid afternoon game drive. One of our highlights were a couple of
delightful giraffes who were
rubbing necks; we stopped for awhile to watch them. We decided giraffes were especially good at
striking a pose- we could almost imagine them saying "This is my full face... Now let me show you my best side" ;) We were close enough to one to admire their
eyelashes. We also saw a family of wart hogs, much to the joy of some of my friends who had not yet been able to photograph any. And I was
finally able to snap a halfway decent photo of a
hippo with its mouth open- something I'd frustratingly been unable to capture the previous day!
Animals, animals
everywhere!
One of the men in our jeep was itching to go back to the Mara river to see if the Wildebeest we'd spotted earlier had crossed yet. When we arrived, it seemed like they were still as they had been when we'd last looked in on them;
standing around perhaps asking each other "Do you want to cross today?" and then answering "I dunno, do you want to cross today?" A number of jeeps were stopped to watch the non-activity. We joined them. Some jeeps pulled away; we decided to stay awhile.
When a Wildebeest
walked to the edge of the river, I wondered if he was going to tease us all again. I think I let out a light shriek when I saw him edge into the water. He was going for it! Oh my freaking lord, we were going to see some Wildebeest
cross the river for their great migration- how cool was that?!?! The majestic beasts
lined up, walked or swam
through the water,
emerged on our side of the river as if in defiance of the watching vultures, and then ultimately
ran off into the wide open fields. It was a wonder to see, and I doubt any words or pictures can truly do it justice. After a bunch had
crossed, others turned back... but then
another group crossed even closer to us. It appeared that all the ones we observed managed to
cross successfully- yay! (one seemed like it might have been hurt, but it made it across; it is common for lives to be lost in the crossing) Eventually, some of the Wildebeest
turned back and decided not to follow the others across; they were clearly slackers. ;) But we saw 2 groups crossing- can't complain at all! It was an
awe inspiring sight. Spectacular.
So the excitement was over for the day, right? Wrong! Although nothing could top the Wildebeest crossing, it was pretty darn cool when we were able to park for the
closest view we'd had so far of a
pride of
lions. Most were
resting, but a couple cubs were
playing and
wrestling with each other. Fun to watch! It never gets old watching
lions in their
natural habitat, and we sat there
enjoying the gorgeous big cats for a fair amount of time.
The sun was
starting to set so our game ride would soon be over. As we enjoyed the
scenery, it was as if someone shouted
"Cue the Wildebeest!" as we encountered a bunch of them
on the Mara with the
setting sun in the background. Seeing a
line of Wildebeest march off through the sunset was a
perfect little finale for the drive through the
Mara.
A few of us had signed up for an evening game drive that was offered directly from the hotel. It was our last night in Africa- hell yes, I want to do another game drive rather than hanging out at the hotel! I thought of it as a kind of a sequel to the Night Safari I'd embarked on earlier in the year at the Singapore zoo. This game drive was very different from others in that there were really no other vehicles driving around, and our guide would shine a bright light into the fields to try and spot animals. We'd hoped to see the elusive leopard, the only one of the "Big Five" (elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion, leopard) we'd yet to see; but alas our luck wasn't quite so perfect. I think leopards are slacking and should be replaced in the "Big Five" with a more grateful species. ;)
We saw a
hyena feasting on dinner, and also saw
impala,
foxes, baby
jackals, and even a
rabbit. (hey, rabbits are cool when spotted in the African savannah!) And of course we also saw the usual quota of
giraffe (although it was unique to see one sitting down) and
zebras. But the night ride to me was more about the feeling of being one with nature in the dark, rather than any specific sightings. It was the perfect activity to end the day; afterwards we made a quick stop for pasta at the hotel restaurant for dinner and then I was totally ready to pass out. It was a day of 1106 photos... and special memories that completely eradicated thoughts of any previous hassles and frustrations during the trip. A bunch of us agreed that we could probably have spent a week just at the Masai Mara without ever getting bored.